Matteo's Ristorante, Fitzroy, VIC

Matteo's is the dapper, slightly eccentric aristocrat of Melbourne fine dining. A deluxe interior with purple chairs, chandeliers and gilt mirrors promises indulgence and refinement, but the menu shirks the safe European fare one might expect in such an elegant environment, opting for more flamboyant Asian fusion. That prosaic Australian-Chinese dish, lemon chicken is given a different take at Matteo's, the breast meat fried Japanese Karaage style and served on a bed of coconut rice coated in lemongrass sauce.

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